Day 1 – Arrival into Hanoi.

With a few old faces from last year’s Northern Vietnam Explorer tour, and a few new ones we spent the afternoon catching up and swapping stories by the pool to escape the intense Hanoi heat.  Plenty of time for a rest or a wander, before a fantastic welcome dinner at a local Hanoi restaurant. The food and the drinks kept coming, and the stories of last year kept rolling.

Those that had travelled that day retired to bed and others continued into the night, with an over the top Vietnamese bar pumping out obnoxiously loud over synthesised music sung slightly off key it was time to leave and then a relax in the Old Quarter at a backpacker bar before finally heading to bed much later than intended.

 Day 2 – On the Road Again – Hanoi to Mai Chau

After a great big breakfast and plenty of coffee for those that partied on, we geared up and hit the road. We bused out of Hanoi city for an hour or so as to avoid the chaos of the morning peak hour. Being able to sit back and watch the traffic weave in and out, horns tooting and drivers swerving to avoid all matter of obstacles was a good start to being able to appreciate how the local traffic moves. It is like nothing that you are used to at home in Australia. With all the chaos there is an order that works and despite all the cutting and stopping there is no road rage.

Once clear of the city we met up with the bikes and saddled up. Fresh and ready to go we headed west towards the hills through town and villages that grew smaller and smaller.

The heat on the road was intense – at around 37 deg it was hot going, but with a few stops for water we swapped the buildings for rice paddies and trucks for water buffalos. It was not a big day of riding – enough for those that had never ridden in Vietnam to taste the adventures to come and enough for those from last year to whet their appetite again.

We arrived into Mai Chau – our first home stay of the trip. Our overnight accommodation was in communal rooms – if we didn’t know each other by then we sure where going to over the next few nights.

We enjoyed lunch in the shade and swapped stories of the sights of the mornings ride. We relaxed in the afternoon, wandered the village and read books.

By the time dinner arrived we were rested and revived. The evening ended  with a dance troupe made up of the local men and woman who performed a variety of different dances from all over Vietnam to the sounds of beating drums and local instruments.

Day 3 – Exploring the Mai Chau Valleys

We left early in the morning for a tour of the local valley. Lead by the owner of the home stay that we were staying at, we travelled up roads with no names and through many small impoverished villages. Life is simple in the small communities here – substance living, bare floors or timber stilt houses, a motorbike and of course the government subsidised satellite dish…. The children may not have shoes, but the houses all have tv’s!

The countryside changed from low lying rice paddies in the sweltering heat to higher corn fields where the temperature are much cooler providing a respite – for a little while.

After returning to the home stay, it was time to relax, take a nap or wander up the road to a local hotel for a refreshing swim in the pool. A fantastic day of riding followed by a relaxing afternoon – holiday mode was kicking in.

It is tradition in local villages to share in the local rice wine, so after dinner a few raucous rounds were – enjoyed? Enjoyed is a loose term, as it is not the smoothest of drinks. Drunk as a shot, it is somewhere between wine and tequila, with all batches different in taste and in strength. They are drunk as a toast with a countdown of Mot, Hai, Bai, YO!!! (one, two, three, GO!!!) And as soon as one is down the lethal water bottle is being passed around for the next round. The smart ones stop, the same easily lead ones that should have stopped earlier in the day kept on going.

The toasts change from old friends to new friends, to good days and good riding, but always with a louder and louder Mot, Hai, Bai, YO!!!

When you were done, you snuck off to bed. Those that are easily lead wandered off into the village for a walk – before only walking a few houses away to be invited in to share a real traditional Vietnamese drinking session. Sitting on the ground and picking at small portions of garlic drenched morning glory (Vietnamese water spinach), sweet pork pieces and other yet to be determined, but tasty snacks. And of course the obligatory rice wine.

From here the night continued on…someone may have mentioned Karaoke – very popular in Vietnam, but you know you have had a little too much rice wine when you are getting higher scores singing in Vietnamese than in English!

Back in May 2011 a group of Aussies converged on Hanoi to tackle the mountains north of Hanoi by motorbike…….or should we say scooter.  Their travel agent, Meghann Fallon of Go Explore The World, is not your average agent.  She pulled on the leathers and joined the tour making sure everyone had a blast.

This was a journey full of laughs, superb scenery, a few flat tyres and many sore bums.  Meghann set the trend by buying a pillow to strap on to her bike seat, somewhat relieving the pressure on the rear end.

Travis led the tour both on and off the road.  Managed to lead Paul astray one night in the bar and paid for it dearly the next day.  A tough day of riding on a road under repair is challenging at the best of times, but with a thumping head and bleary eyes……mmmmm

This group photo was taken at a lookout with fabulously dramatic scenery.  One could be accused of thinking we were in a studio with a fake picture behind us.

Here is Travis modelling the latest in fluoro vests standing next to Tracey the WET Operations Manager, Duc our mechanic, Milney the yogi biker and our fabulous travel agent, Meghann.

It was hard to choose which day of riding was the best, but with this stunning view it is hard to go past this day.  Sweeping bends, cliff hugging roads, sheer drops, cheerful children popping up everywhere and bright sunny days made for an unforgettable day.

The amazing thing about riding up north of Hanoi is that the scenery is like no other part of Vietnam.  At times we felt we were in the mountains of Pakistan with the rocky plateau which was dotted with colourfully dressed minority people toiling away at the unforgiving soil.  They sure have a hard life up there trying to grow crops between a bunch of rocks.

When we got to the markets it was nice to see the locals girls having a break from all the hard work and shopping together, having a laugh and wearing their sunday bests.

They walk for miles and miles to spend the day at the monthly markets.  So much gossip to catch up on and new clothes to buy.  The boys and girls are flirting, the men are busy throwing back rice wines and the old ladies are bickering over prices.

All that riding, enjoying the scenery, getting a sore bum and meeting the locals sure makes you thirsty.  Lucky we stayed in an oasis at the midway point of the tour so we could kick back, get a massage and cultivate a hangover.

This glorious little resort is nestled at the base of a mountain across a swing bridge where the river babbles by creating a scene of peace and beauty.

Here is Travis and Big Tone.  As you can see we really were riding scooters but these little bikes are stronger than you think.  Check out these two heffer lumps on one.

We all had such a blast that at the end of the tour we decided to do it all again with a reunion tour in May 2012.  This time we will go from Hanoi to central Vietnam on the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

In January 2012 Tracey was back in Australia visiting family and spending some time with Meghann.  So we got some of the crew back together for a reunion drink and to rope some newcomers in for the reunion ride.

Here at the Langwarrin Pub is Mark, Cat, Lawrie, Darren, Paul, Tracey, Milney & Meghann.

Stay tuned for a blog of the reunion bike tour…….

A lot about the place you are going to, the history, the food, the culture etc but more so about yourself.

I love to learn new things while I am travelling, a new skill or knowledge that I can take home with me.

A few things that I have learnt….

1. Vietnamese Cooking in Hoi An
2. Ice Climbing in New Zealand (A really handy one this one!) 
3. Scuba Diving in Nha Trang
4. Not to eat too much from the street stalls in India
5. Thai Cooking in Chang Mai
6. How to enjoy a true Turkish Hamman – p.s. if they speak English then it is a tourist one and not the real deal!
7. Patience in China
8. About the horrors of land mines in Cambodia
9. Paragliding in Olu Deniz Turkey
10. How to rotate my way a few times around a cocktail list in Bali
11. That for $20 a night you can have your own private beach and bungalow in Ko Tao Thailand – not telling where!!!
12. Looking left first before crossing the road in San Francisco
13. Trekking in Nepal
14. Not to take photo’s of the burning Ghats – anywhere!
15. How to not breath while going to the bathroom on the road from Nepal to Tibet
16. That I can drink liters of tea in Nepal, China, Turkey, Syria, Jordan and Egypt
17. The strength of the human heart in Tibet 
18. That Thanksgiving with Family in one of the best holidays in the World and that I would miss it every year from then on
19. Betting a Tuk Tuk driver that he could not drive like Michael Schumacher at 3am in the morning in Bangkok will result in fits of terrifies laughter from us – not so much from the Bangkok Tourist police….
20. That the Great Wall of China – is pretty impressive…. Great you could even say…

There are so many things about travelling that without even knowing it you are learning about the World, life and yourself. No better class rooms either!

THE NORTH FACE ADVENTURE GRANT 2012

PRESENTED BY AG OUTDOOR

TURN YOUR ADVENTURE DREAMS INTO REALITY

APPLICATIONS CLOSING DECEMBER 31^ST!

Planning and experiencing your ultimate adventure is never cheap, but thanks to The North Face, AG Outdoor and the Australian Geographic Society, it can happen. With a $5000 grant from The North Face, $2000 worth of The North Face gear, a $3000 AG Society Grant and an exclusive story on your trip in AG Outdoor, you’ll not only be equipped with the world’s most technically innovative apparel and equipment, you will be able to fulfill that adventure dream.

What are we looking for?

Exploration and adventure is the name of the game. We are looking at applicants from a wide range of areas including rock climbing, trekking, alpine climbing, extreme endurance pursuits, skiing, snowboarding, B.A.S.E jumping, kayaking and paragliding, just to name a few. But remember: we are not only looking for elite athletes, the grant is designed to assist everyday adventurers to step up and make their adventure aspirations a reality.

Application Opening and Closing Date

Applications for the 2012 grant are now open.  Applications close on December 31^st 2011.

How do you apply for the grant?
Please send us a proposal detailing your adventure and expedition plans for 2012. Include concise and relevant info on location, climate, geography, a team profile, objectives, dates, etc. Once the submission period closes, the grant will be awarded by a panel of The North Face and AG Outdoor experts.

Please send your grant submissions to:
adventuregrant@thenorthface.com.au

Or by mail to:

The North Face Adventure Grant 2012
The North Face
19 O’Riordan St
Alexandria 2015 NSW

For more info, please visit: http://www2.thenorthface.com.au/tnf_grant2012.php

Organising a motorcycle adventure tour through the rarely-visited Ha Giang region of Northern Vietnam is challenging assuring riders of BIG bikes that 125cc is enough grunt for the mountainous terrain. Somewhat convinced, we set off to be schooled on riding Vietnam roads. We’re told to stay on the right-hand-side and dodge bikes, cars, cyclos, trucks, and meandering pedestrians. We try only worry about looking straight ahead, as we’re told, defying all Australian road safety rules and ingrained motorbike knowledge.

Riding the regional roads was exhausting but exhilarating with us vigilant about children on the shoulder; dogs asleep in the middle and the ever-terrifying buses who give racing cars a run for their money. Their deafening horns like raging rhinos roaring up behind you.
Heading north from Hanoi over eight hours, buildings and towns receded into countryside. When we reached the tiny town of Ha Giang locals stared bemused and children raced after us laughing. Our hotel parking for the night was interestingly accessible via the lobby so, hilariously, seventeen dirty, dusty bikes rode through the entrance past reception out the back door.
We travelled next morning to Dong Van We’d been told the views along the way would be good, but riding it outshone our expectations. The roads coiling through the deep valleys below mountains defining the Chinese border were in good condition and we passed rice paddy fields and countless cornfields which were planted on mountains too steep for many of us to climb. The rivers guided us past small villages dwarfed by the mountain range above. Their panoramic expanse appreciated at a lookout above Dong Van. It rates as the best view I’ve seen my whole travelling life.
In Dong Van we watched in awe as children played on steep mountain ledges like confident mountain goats. Being a trading post between Vietnam and China, Dong Van has a Chinese sensibility. It was here I bought pillows for my seat as pillion and the extra padding was a welcome relief for my backside on the long bumpy pot-holed roads back to Ha Giang.
“Sin chow” (hello in Vietnamese) echoed through villages as we waved at locals and timid children approached us with obvious poverty. Their dirty faces smiling as they played with simple things like plastic bottles and stones humbled us. We took photos and watched the children excitedly recognise themselves on camera. Little performers emerged as their confidence grew with silly faces. Returning to their modest clay houses, we noticed they lacked basic essentials but surprisingly were kitted-out with a motorbike and a satellite dish, linking families to an ordinary world.
It was in Hoang Su Phi we found refuge in a hotel oasis, concealed by a small cable bridge from the main street. We felt isolated from the bustle of the village, surrounded by lush tropical rainforest with ample fresh produce and a communal bar shared by a resident pony with a taste for beer. Drinkers were met with a cheeky head through the window beckoning for a share of their ale, and we obliged.
After dinner we swam in the river, sacrificed a room key to it and indulged in hot herbal baths and massages. After resting overnight we headed onward through the low-lying forest to Bac Ha where we encountered women in colourful, elaborate clothing and had our first western meal since leaving Hanoi.
Reluctantly we were edging back onto the tourist trail but settled in to enjoy some comforts from home. With our journey consisting mostly of authentic Vietnamese cuisine till now, the introduction of western food bought a cutlery division. Chopstick-wielding diners sat at one end of the table and knife-and-fork users at the other, like rival gangs facing off. Steaming hotpots of fresh local cuisine were ferried to the chopstickers, while hamburgers and chips were taken to the others.
By day seven the downhill portion of the ride was a welcome change and we stopped briefly in Lao Cai to view China across the river. We continued uphill into Sapa overlooking the highest peak in South East Asia – the mystical Fansipan Mountain. The innocence of locals from Hoang Su Phi were lost to memory as shyness was replaced by a never-ending chorus of “you buy from me” from the Hmong villagers.
At this time a new split had emerged. Partiers and sensible early-to bed types. The ones who strayed watched well-earned beers turn to rice wine chasing the dawn and the sensible types got a good night’s rest. The rice wine tarnished the partiers (me included) and our day-after therapy included treks, massage; lounging in cafés, or purchasing handicrafts from the locals with baskets strapped to their backs. Locals were keen to chat, surprising us with their fantastic and often cheeky command of English.
Setting off from the markets on the final leg of the ride we saddled our bikes for the last time and enjoyed the easy terrain which gave us time to reflect. The bikes now proven workhorses were transferred by overnight train to Hanoi and our group safely tucked away in bunk bed cabins.
On our final day we beat the heat by catching an early bus to Halong Bay for an overnight cruise on a traditional Junk boat – a stunning tribute to the ancient treasure boats from China. We cruised through limestone peaks that shaped the bay with our group taking respite in sunbathing and summoning a perfect end to a memorable trip.

Check out the tour here

I think the travel drink that changed my life and now I can’t live without is green tea. Before travelling through China, I didn’t drink tea at all, had no interest in it. But after being in China for 3 months came to love the stuff – and now cannot effectively start my day with out a brew of some kind. I have tonnes of teas now from all over – and of every flavor, herb and with every kind of health benefit. I only wish I could get away with carrying my little plastic jar around with me like they do in China – then I would be set for the day!

This is where my husband and I got engaged – I think the photo’s say enough! This is Cho La Pass in the Everest region of Nepal – absolutely breathtaking!!

Budget is important – no matter how many people say to me – “Oh I don’ t have a budget”, they are not telling the truth or they are very lucky, I wish I could travel with no budget! But when it comes down to it everyone has a budget in mind that they are working with some are more strict than others are some are very tight.

I remember years ago travelling through Vietnam with another couple who were on a very tight budget. We were pretty flexible, we stayed in budget hotels nothing too fancy but never missed out on doing something that we wanted to do. I remember sitting down and treating ourselves to pizza – sometimes you need a noodle break, to watch these guys spend 5 minutes deciding if they should forgo tomorrows breakfast and just have fruit so that they could share another beer now….. They stayed 15 minutes more out of town to get a cheaper hotel and would walk in and out, mind you it was only $1 cheaper per night… they wrote everything down in a little accounting book and calculated what they had and what they could spend down to the cent.

They were such great guys and we loved travelling with them but is that really a way to travel? Down to the cent? They did miss out on a lot of extra things that just sort of popped up, because they could not squeeze it into their budget – so they stayed at the hotel and read books that they swapped with other travellers.

I guess I have always been in the mindset that do it while you are there, because who knows when you will be back – and I hate to miss out on anything! There are some things that I can cut back on to save a few extra dollars – but only so that I can spend it on something else and I have quite often come home with a dent in the credit card,  but enjoyed every minute of it.

Things I am happy to miss out on….

• Western food, sometimes yes you need bacon and eggs or muesli for breakfast, but what ever the locals are eating is going to be the freshest, cheapest and normally the best option
• Accommodation – I would rather stay in a basic hotel and stay for an extra 2 days then spend half my budget on accommodation and only see the room as I am going to bed or waking up. As long as the room is clean and has a decent bed, it is fine because I have always stayed in worse…
• Taxi’s – Local buses may take a bit to work out but they are generally the cheapest option and you get to hang out with all the locals going about their everyday who love to share their cities secrets with you
• Booze – I know I am one of the few and rare travelers who puts experience over nights out…. Don’t get me wrong I love a good drinking session, but if I am there for a limited time rather than wake up hung over and unmotivated, I will not drink so that I can make sure to make the most of my next day

I am very lucky my passion for travel is also my business – I live for my own travel agency. I love sharing my travel experiences and my travel secrets with my clients, and I love sharing theirs. Everyday I get to flick through travel brochures, surf for flights and check out hotels all in the name of work. I get to look at travelers photos and speak to them about their next adventures every single day.

I prefer to travel light – with next to nothing. I have spent two weeks in Borneo with nothing more than a day pack and it was fantastic.

I have a list of must haves and they are

• 2 pairs of thongs/flip flops what ever you call them – one everyday pair and one dresser pair
• Good comfortable walking shoes – normally my Teva sandal I love them!!
• A sarong – can be used for everything, dress, skirt, bed sheet, towel, curtain, carry bag all sorts of handy things
• Pair of long cotton pants
• Pair of shorts
• One dress that is dressy enough to wear out but nothing you would be heart broken about loosing.
• 3 T shirts
• 3 Singlets
• Undies and socks
• One long sleeve
• One lightweight water proof jacket
• Mereno Thermals - if I am going somewhere cold

Then there is the universal power converter -so you only need one and my little laptop, charger and an iPod lead to charge my iPhone / iPod

And that is pretty much it. I use the little shampoo and conditioner bottles, and barely take any make up. I use a handy little fold up hairbrush and my toothbrush is packed away in a little box with travel sized toothpaste.

What ever else you need you can pick up along the way. I do tend to travel in Asia, so it is warm and easy to buy essentials as you go. I have traveled to cooler places, like New York and Beijing in December, and just take a heavier jacket and no sandels.

I love to travel with nothing because I love the freedom that it gives you, no need to worry about all your bits and pieces, having them stolen or more likely for me loosing them. That clears the emotional side of it and I can just relax and enjoy where I am, not worry about what I have.